• Beavers back since 2004, reintroduced after a century gone, with dams along the channels and gnawed willows and poplars to spot
• Only Balkan donkey farm in the former Yugoslavia, home to around 120 donkeys whose milk makes pule cheese
• 185 bird species, including white storks, night herons and white-tailed eagles, so binoculars are worth packing

Zasavica is a protected wetland in an old bed of the Sava: a slow river lined with reed beds, water lilies and flooded meadows. Beavers brought back in 2004 now build dams along the channels.

Kids can visit the Balkan donkey farm, look for woolly Mangulica pigs and Podolian cattle on the Valjevac pasture, and find carved sculptures of local animals, including a 15-ton stone ox at the main entry.