• Sunday market brings stalls into the lanes, so expect bigger crowds than on a weekday
• Each shop sets its own hours, and the restaurants and bars stay open into the evening after the shops close
• Cobbled lanes throughout, so a stroller gets a bumpy ride and a carrier is easier

LX Factory fills a 19th-century textile mill complex beneath the 25 de Abril Bridge. Its cobbled lanes and old warehouses now hold independent shops, cafés, restaurants, studios and big street-art murals.

The Ler Devagar bookshop takes up a tall factory hall stacked floor to ceiling with books. Kids can hunt for murals, browse the shelves and snack their way along the lanes.