• Train from Lisbon on the CP Sintra line from Rossio, Oriente or Entrecampos, then a 10-15 minute walk or Scotturb bus 434 or 435 from Sintra station
• No cars in the historic center except for residents, so park outside and walk or take the bus in
• Ticket office shuts 12pm to 1pm, but the automatic ticket machines keep selling, or book online ahead

The oldest palace in Portugal, begun around the 10th or 11th century under Moorish rule. Kids spot the two giant conical chimneys from the square, then look straight up them from the royal kitchen.

Inside are the Swan Room and Magpie Room with painted ceilings, the tiled Room of the Coats of Arms, and a central patio with a water grotto.